A chef, having learned from the masters, and having established his own name, will always want to have something to show for it. Like any aspiring or even seasoned chef, opening your own restaurant is the dream. Chef William Mahi is no different.
After 21 years in the industry (he started at the very young age of 14), and having gained experience in the world’s greatest cities—from France, he has reached Beirut, Shanghai, Luxembourg, Istanbul, Athens, and now Manila—he finally has the chance to settle and plant his roots.
When he first came to the country a little over two years ago for a stint at The Tasting Room, chef William declared that Manila would be the next culinary destination. Seeing the diners’ growing discernment when it comes to food was what finally pushed him to make his dream restaurant a reality.
“Being at the home of a Michelin-starred chef on his day off” best describes the idea that grounds 210º Kitchen + Drinkery. From its name to its dishes, the restaurant represents much of what William is today. From fine dining, he goes through a more than 180º shift to fun dining: the dishes are presented in a way that you’d expect from someone of chef William’s caliber, but the dishes themselves and their price points make it more approachable.
210º has been seeing a “good kind of overwhelming” patronage, says Heather Mahi, chef William’s wife and Communications Director of 210º. Each night sees a full house despite still being on soft opening mode. Next month, the second floor bar is expected to be completed, along with it the expansion of the menu. Currently, 210º offers a four-course soft opening menu. You can choose from three to four different dishes for each course.
Start off your dinner with the pumpkin veloute. Cooked sous vide, the soup also uses sweet white wine and is topped with cumin foam. The homemade marinated salmon is also a good starter—the fish is marinated for 36 hours, and is served with pickles, capers, button mushrooms, and a drizzling of Parisian sauce.
Next, try The Egg: egg yolk is poured into a bowl with caramelized onions and bacon hidden underneath a bed of potato mousse. The Egg is cooked at a precise temperature of 48º. Meanwhile, also try the Pan-seared Duck Liver Foie Gras. The corn foam and popcorn appear to be curious combinations with the foie gras at first, but since the ducks are fed corn, the pairing makes sense.
While waiting for the next course to be served, you can also enjoy some of 210º’s cocktails. This is just a preview of what the bar will later offer—the drinks are also concocted by chef William with their mixologist.
Mark My Word is on the stronger end of the spectrum, with a smokey aftertaste. If anything, order it for the experience: a unique glass (shaped almost like a smoking pipe), with a handle that can also be used as a straw.
Not By The Book, on the other hand, is a risky choice. Though it has vodka, its orange flavor stands out, making you feel like you’re drinking juice. A little sweet, this deceptive drink may have you slurping through the entire glass in no time at all.
Meanwhile, the Comfort Me is the middle ground of the three cocktails currently on the menu. It has the subtle taste of whiskey, mixed with amaretto, lemon, and egg white.
End the evening with dessert: the Real Moelleux au Chocolat is perfect to satisfy those chocolate cravings. Not cloyingly sweet, the molten chocolate oozes out from the cake and mixes well with the homemade vanilla ice cream and tart berries served alongside it.
Writer: PAULINE MIRANDA
PHOTOGRAPHY DANICA CONDEZ
